Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Trek

Introduction

The route was devised by Alfred Wainwright in 1973 and he wrote the original guidebook that described it. It runs across northern England for just under 200 miles from St Bees Head in Cumbria (Irish Sea coast) to Robin Hood’s Bay in Yorkshire (North Sea coast) and goes through very varied and spectacular countryside including the Lake District, Pennines and North York Moors. For information, the hamlet of Keld in the Pennines is roughly halfway.

It is considered to be the most popular long distance trek in the UK but for some strange reason it has not been recognised as a National Trail. This means that it is not marked on Ordnance Survey (OS) maps and is not officially signposted. Cumbria in particular was very poorly signed in 2011, mostly being indicated by normal Public Footpath signs and hand-written signs provided by local farmers to help keep walkers on the trail. Yorkshire was much better and did have lots of Coast to Coast signs in 2012-2013. Fortunately, there are 2 Harvey’s maps that cover the entire route and mark it clearly on the map.

It’s an excellent walk and I have done it twice, always in the west to east direction.

Ordering Black and White Fine Art Prints

If you would like a black and white print as a memento of your trek, all of the black and white images are available. They were taken with a Mamiya 7 camera on Ilford 120 film and are available as high quality hand made darkroom prints in a range of sizes from 40x30cm to 70x70cm (size refers to mount and frame, image is a few cm smaller).

They all have a 6 digit number at the end of the title to uniquely identify the negative to help ordering – just type this number into the search box in the UK Landscapes Gallery and it will show the image and ordering information. Not all images are included so if you can’t find the ones that interest you just send me an email using the Contact page form on this website and we’ll sort out the details between us.

1st Crossing

Saturday 30th June 1979 Travel to St Bees Head

My wife Jan dropped me off at Welwyn Garden City station to meet up with Andy and be in time to catch the 11.30am train to London Kings Cross. Then it was a quick trip on the Underground to Euston to catch the train to Carlisle, arriving at 4.45pm. Another 2 trains took us to Whitehaven and then to St Bees. A short walk later we were in the St Bees Head caravan and camping site where we met up with Chris who had travelled up from North Wales, it was about 7.30pm. Andy and I camped in my Vango Force 10 mk2 ‘coffin’ tent (tapered down and narrowed at the back) with a nylon flysheet extension which gave us a porch to cook under. Chris was in his own tent with his dog, a Border Collie puppy called Megan.

I walked the Pennine Way with Chris and Andy in 1974 and we had worked at the same place in Welwyn for a few years so we were all good friends and it was a good fun trip.

Sunday 1st July 1979 St Bees Head to Ennerdale Bridge 14 miles

The next day was dry and hot. After paddling in the sea we were off at 10.15am carrying very heavy packs, all around 55lbs (25kg). The route starts with an impressive cliff top walk then cuts inland through the small hamlet of Sandwith where we stopped for a break at the Lowther Arms at 12.45pm, just 5 miles from the start. On leaving the pub a black Labrador followed us to Cleator before losing interest in us. We carried on over Dent Hill at 4pm and along a stream to reach Ennerdale Bridge at 6.30pm. We asked at a farm almost opposite the phone box if there was anywhere to camp and they offered us space in a field close by. Then we went to the Fox and Hounds for a meal and a few beers before turning in for the night. It was a bit noisy with peacocks, geese and chickens roaming around but we were soon asleep.

Monday 2nd July 1979 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite 15 miles

We had breakfast, packed up and bought provisions for the day from the village shop of tinned Corned Beef and Ryvita biscuits – there were no bread rolls, setting off at 10.15am. It was dry and warm all day but not much sunshine.

Soon we reached the shoreline of Ennerdale Water and enjoyed the walk with extensive views up the valley. At the end of the lake we crossed to the northern shore and had a short break at 1pm at Low Gillerthwaite where we voted on the route that we should take to Honister Pass. In view of the heavy packs I voted to stay low but Chris and Andy both wanted to go high so we took the track up to Red Pike and followed the ridge over High Stile, High Crag and Haystacks to reach the Honister Pass at 8.30pm. We followed the track straight to the Scafell Hotel for refreshments at 9.30pm but there was no camping in Rosthwaite so after a quick pint we walked 1 mile along the Honister road to a campsite where we had a freeze-dried ready meal (Vesta Paella) and Chris’ excuse for tea! We turned in a bit before midnight.

Tuesday 3rd July 1979 Rosthwaite to Grasmere 11 miles

It was omelette and Oat Crunchies for breakfast after which we packed up and left at 9.30am. We returned to Rosthwaite to pick up the route and then followed the main trail all the way to Grasmere, no high level route today! Quite a bit of it was along the river and it was sunny and hot all day so it was very inviting but we pressed on looking forward to an early finish in Grasmere, which we reached at 2pm.

There was no sign of a campsite so after having refreshments in the Lamb Inn and double portions of steak and kidney pie at the Black and White Cafe we asked around and were told that the only place with a campsite license was Broad Rayne Farm (but they didn’t advertise it!) on the road to Keswick, just past the Travellers Rest Inn.

We knocked at the farmhouse door, politely asked if it was true that they were the official campsite for Grasmere, and if so could camp there? Success, we were given permission to camp and told where to go and where the toilet and wash-basin was. We pitched our tents in the field beside the main road, had a rest, and went to the Travellers Rest in the evening.

Wednesday 4th July 1979 Grasmere to Patterdale 9 miles

It was another hot and sunny day. We packed up and started walking at 9am. It was just a few hundred yards to the track up to Grisedale Tarn from where we headed to St Sunday Crag. There were excellent views across to Striding Edge and the Helvellyn range from the path followed by a fine ridge walk. 

Then it was down to Patterdale where we visited both the Patterdale Hotel and White Lion Hotel for refreshments and food at the latter, I had fish and chips followed by minced beef pie and chips. We were obviously burning a lot of calories carrying the heavy packs over the mountains! We camped on the other side of the valley at Side Farm campsite.

Thursday 5th July 1979 Patterdale to Shap 16 miles

We were up early, had breakfast, packed up and were walking by 8.40am. It was another hot day with lots of sunshine. The route was easy to follow up past Angle Tarn and on to reach Kidsty Pike summit at midday, that was about 5 miles from our campsite. Then it was downhill to the edge of Haweswater Reservoir which we followed to Burnbanks and across to Shap Abbey ruins, finishing the day in Shap village at 6.15pm. We saw Curlew, Oystercatchers and Redshank in the hay fields close to Shap.

The campsite was at the north end of the village and we went to the Albion House Hotel (called the Kings Arms Hotel in Wainwright’s guidebook) for food and refreshments. Then it was back to the Bulls Head near the campsite to meet up for a few beers with two guys that we’d spent a couple of evenings with previously.

Friday 6th July 1979 Shap to Kirkby Stephen 20 miles

We packed up and left the campsite at 8.30am and went to the Co-op for bread rolls and chocolate and the local butcher’s shop for ham to make ham rolls for breakfast. We finally left Shap at 9.50am and it was another nice day, sunny and breezy. 

There was quite a lot of walking over moorland and farmland as well as a few miles of limestone pavement, we were extra careful with our big packs as we walked over this. We reached Sunbiggin Tarn at 3.30pm which had huge numbers of Black Headed Gulls. Then it was on to reach Kirkby Stephen at 7.15pm.

There was no obvious place to camp so we went to the Black Bull Hotel and asked. They told us there was no campsite but it would be alright to camp at the cricket ground but we had to keep well away from the pitch! We pitched between the cricket boundary and the river, amongst some trees, and returned to the fish and chip shop for food and then into the hotel again for the rest of the evening. My feet were quite sore and bruised from carrying the big pack and the miles that we had walked.

Saturday 7th July 1979 Kirkby Stephen to Keld 13 miles

We were up and packed before 8am and as we had a town on the doorstep we decided to spoil ourselves and have breakfast at the Central Cafe. We started walking by 9am on a dull day but it stayed dry.

We followed the route to Nine Standards Rigg (9 very large rock cairns on a hilltop) but it disappeared in peat bog beyond this so we made our own way down to the river where we picked up the track again. There were lots of impressive waterfalls as we continued to Keld, reaching it at 2.30pm. We pitched our tents at the campsite down by the river. There were lots of flies, midges and gnats so apart from those driving us mad it was a good site! There was no pub in Keld so we had an early night.

Sunday 8th July 1979 Keld to Reeth 12 miles

The small biting insects were still driving us mad in the morning so we made an early start at 7.45am. Once again it was very dull but stayed dry.

The day started with yet more waterfalls followed by lots of mine workings. Some of these were still completely cleared of any vegetation many decades after they were abandoned. It was easy walking and we arrived in Reeth at 12.30pm and had lunch at the Kings Arms. 

We camped at the Orchard Campsite, about a half mile from the village centre. We spent the evening in the Black Bull for food and refreshments. The campsite had a lot of rules which were explained to us as we checked in and was quite luxurious as they had showers, not just toilets! 

Monday 9th July 1979 Reeth to Colburn 14 miles

We returned to Reeth in the morning to buy provisions from the shop and finally left at 10.35am, it was a hot sunny day. The walking was very easy along good tracks through farmland and woods to Richmond which we reached at 2.30pm (very impressive castle ruins!). A visit to the Buck Hotel and a cafe for lunch followed.

Unfortunately, there were no campsites in Richmond so we decided to continue until we found somewhere. There was a pub in Colburn, just a couple of miles from Richmond, so we asked if there was somewhere to camp and were directed to a farmers field close by where we pitched the tents and spent the night.

Tuesday 10th July 1979 Colburn to Ingleby Cross 20 miles

We left Colburn at 9am through fields and along mostly quiet roads to reach Danby Wiske at lunchtime, 1.30pm. We had lunch in the White Swan pub before continuing to Ingleby Cross, reaching it at 6.20pm.

We camped on the edge of the cricket field and returned to the Blue Bell Inn for the evening.

We planned to finish with the Lyke Wake Walk but decided that we weren’t in a fit state to do 40 miles in a day, so the official Wainwright end to the route over 3 days was adopted instead. I had already agreed to meet my wife Jan and a group of friends on Thursday night in Robin Hoods Bay, that gave me 2 days not 3, so I had to leave Chris and Andy to finish without me. 

Wednesday 11th July 1979 Ingleby Cross to Osmotherley 3 miles

We left Ingleby Cross at 9.30am and walked up through Arncliffe Woods where I left them just before the 142 mile point in the Wainwright guidebook and headed to Osmotherley Campsite. I found a phone box in the village and rang my wife to rearrange the meeting point from Robin Hoods Bay to Osmotherley and ambled around the local hills. Chris and Andy finished on the Friday afternoon and we were all there waiting to greet them outside the Bay Hotel. I was really disappointed not to have finished with them. 

Sunday 14th September 2003 Ingleby Arncliffe to Clay Bank Top 12 miles

A bit over 24 years later I thought I should finish the trek I started in 1979! This time it was with my wife Jan and we used 2 cars each day so that we could walk from one to the other. I had allowed a leisurely 4 days to finish.

We drove up from our home in the Peak District in the morning and parked one car at Clay Bank Top then returned in the other to Ingleby Arncliffe to start the walk. It was sunny, hot and breezy as we left at 1pm walking up through Arncliffe Woods. There were lots of signs for the Cleveland Way as we followed the edge around Beacon Hill, Carlton Bank (where we watched gliders performing above us) to reach the car at Clay Bank Top at 6pm. We drove round to collect the other car and then made our way to the Egton Bridge Postgate Inn for the night.

Monday 15th September 2003 Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale Moor 15 miles

We parked the car just off the road on Glaisdale Moor and returned to Clay Bank Top car park to start at 11.15am. It was sunny and warm.

We followed the route over Urra Moor to the Lion Inn at Blakey for a late lunch just before 2pm. There was a Grouse shoot going on so we had to walk along the edge of the main road for a mile or so and then the side road, past Fat Betty stone marker, instead of the track across the moor to reach the car on Glaisdale Moor at 5pm. After collecting the other car we stayed at Egton Bridge Postgate Inn again.

Tuesday 16th September 2003 Glaisdale Moor to Little Beck 11 miles

We drove to Little Beck to park a car, drove back to Glaisdale Moor and started walking at 10.30am. It was sunny and warm with lots of blue sky.

I took a few photos at Egton Bridge then we continued to Grosmont and wandered around the station and railway area for a few minutes and stopped for an hour or so at the Station Tavern for lunch after 1pm. After this we headed up the hill and across the moors to reach the car in Little Beck just after 4pm. Once again, after collecting the other car we stayed at Egton Bridge Postgate Inn.

Wednesday 17th September 2003 Little Beck to Robin Hood’s Bay 12 miles

It was our last day and after dropping off a car in Robin Hoods Bay we returned to Little Beck to start walking. It was another warm sunny day but with a little bit of a breeze.

The first section was through the woods, past a hermit cave, then the waterfall of Falling Foss that was partly obscured by trees from the trail but quite impressive at about 30 feet high. May Beck was then followed until we were on the open moors heading to Hawsker for lunch at the Hare and Hounds before 1pm. It was such a nice day we sat outside in the beer garden for well over an hour. The last 4 miles were along the clifftops, reaching Robin Hoods Bay at 4.45pm. 

So, I finished the 197 miles of the Wainwright Coast to Coast trek in just 24 years, 2 months, 2 weeks and 3 days!

Thursday 18th September 2003 Stayed Robin Hood’s Bay

Jan and I had a bit of an easy day driving around taking photos in Whitby and Staithes before returning to once again stay the night in Robin Hoods Bay.

Friday 19th September 2003 Drove home from Robin Hood’s Bay

After another walk around Robin Hoods Bay we drove home to the Peak District

2nd Crossing

In 2011, good friend Al from Gloucester contacted me to ask if I would walk the Coast to Coast walk with him. It’s a good walk so I agreed but had to split it into 3 parts of 5 days spread over 3 years because of being busy with my photography business.

Monday 4th July 2011 Travel to St Bees

Al drove us up to St Bees on the west coast of England ready to start our 5 day trek of over 60 miles, with a few peaks en route. I have a bad back so I was on Voltarol anti-inflammatories for the whole trip. Al was able to leave the car in a car park next to the b&b which was handy.

It was sunny and warm (25ºC) but unfortunately the forecast was for 4 days of rain. I was hoping to get some new Lake District photographs, especially big views from the tops despite the bad forecast. We also had luggage transfer between each night’s lodging so that we only carried light day sacs. 

After settling into our room, and cracking my head on the low stone lintel over the bathroom door, we ventured out to the local hostelries. First was the Coast to Coast Bar which was a bit spartan but fine. Then we walked up to the Oddfellows Arms which was almost empty, not a lot of atmosphere.

Tuesday 5th July 2011 St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge 15 miles

It was a bit of a grey day but mostly dry and warm as Al and I left the Stonehouse Farm b&b in St Bees at 8.20am and walked the mile to the beach for a paddle in the Irish Sea before starting the walk proper. I took some photos along the beach at the start and again at the top of the cliffs.

Then we had a breezy walk along the cliff tops before heading inland. We walked past the pub in Moor Row knowing there were pubs in Cleator a bit further on. Shock, horror – pub and hotel in Cleator were both closed! 

Al used his initiative and asked a local for guidance to the nearest pub and 10 minutes later we were in the Brook Inn, a bit further along the main road towards Cleator Moor. This was a real gem. Good real ale (Cocker Hoop was excellent) and nice fresh sandwiches. It should be a mandatory stop on the Coast to Coast walk! They had a power cut so only real ales and sandwiches were available, so we were fine!

After lunch at the Brook Inn we headed up Dent, a small peak outside Cleator. Then it was mainly downhill into Ennerdale Bridge. There was very little rain until after we had checked in to the Shepherds Hotel where we had a nice meal and a couple of pints too, Ennerdale Liquidator and Jennings Bitter. Then it was along to the Fox and Hounds for a pint of Burnmoor Pale Ale, and jolly nice it was too.

Wednesday 6th July 2011 Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite 14 miles

At the Shepherds Arms in Ennerdale Bridge Al’s bed was next to the bathroom door. Every time I went to the loo in the night he woke with a start and thought there was an earthquake. It turned out to be a loose floorboard rocking the bedside cupboard! What a sensitive flower he is.

It was a mixed day weather-wise. We left the hotel at 8.25am in dull but dry weather and made it to Ennerdale Water. I took a few photos but the light was a bit flat.

The rain started after an hour or so and continued for over 3 hours. It was stair-rods and not very enjoyable to walk in, even wearing full waterproofs.  It was a bit cool too so I ended up wearing 5 layers including 2 fleeces and a waterproof. Al stopped a couple of times to repair his gammy toe. Not sure it did any good! Blisters rule ok!

The plan was to climb Green Gable but the clouds were down so we gave it a miss, skirted round on the Brandreth side to the head of Gillercomb. This was our route down, straight down! Steep grass slopes and a good scree run helped us down in double quick time. 

Then it was along to Sour Milk Gill and a spectacular series of waterfalls. The sun had come out and was back-lighting the top section, the best viewpoint was in the middle of the stream, as usual. Had to clear the water off the lens every other exposure as I was a bit close at times. The end of the day was great, blue sky and white fluffy clouds and clear as a bell.

It was jolly steep down to Seathwaite, then along to the Borrowdale road and across to Stonethwaite and a very warm welcome by Vicky at the Langstrath Hotel. We were very well looked after and wound down with pints of Cocker Hoop and Thirst Fall.

Our evening meals were excellent and we tried the other 2 real ales, Black Sheep bitter and Cumberland Ale. What a jolly good way to end a day on the hills!

Thursday 7th July 2011 Stonethwaite to Grasmere 8 miles

We left the Langstrath Hotel at 8.25am and walked up the dale beside the river, which was now a raging torrent from all the heavy rain. As we ventured higher the track was under several inches of water and became a waterfall.

It was very boggy underfoot so we made a B-line for the rocks above to avoid a sizable stretch of bog and then made our way to the start of the ridge to Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag. We spent about 1.5h on the ridge from 12pm, including several photo stops, chats with other walkers and a bite to eat. The light was pretty good but changed very quickly for photos.

The path came down steeply into Grasmere and it rained again as we finished the 8 mile walk at 3.15pm. The Dale Head hotel is pretty good. Not much choice when booking as few places here will take 1 night bookings but we seem to have done well.

First it was into Tweedies Bar, behind the hotel, for a few beers and a meal. All were good. I started with a Cumbrian Brewery Grasmoor dark ale, oaty and smooth and jolly nice (best of the night and probably of the trip too). Then on to Coniston Old Man in reasonable condition before trying the Orkney Raven summer ale, foolishly I thought being called Raven it would be a dark ale, how wrong I was. This was champion beer of Scotland but no idea why. It was very bland and could have been anything. 

I finished the early session with Old Peculiar, tasty as ever but preferred the Grasmoor. Special note: Al had a Yates Bitter, normally I steer clear of Yates beers as I have had too many bad pints but he insists this one was good and deserves a mention. So there it is – the first and last mention of Yates beers in this report!

Al has just discovered the way to see emails on his mobile phone from more than the last 2 weeks. He has just downloaded emails back to 2003. I hope his wife Carol doesn’t see the mobile phone bill!

We met up with a couple of fellow walkers in the Red Lion to end the evening. Trevor and Wendy were from Letty Green where I used to go for parties in the 1970’s and Al’s wife used to live. Small world. We finished with a couple of Dent Brewery beers: Ramsbottom, followed by Kamikazi. 2 strong beers and both good. The evening went a bit hazy after this.

Friday 8th July 2011 Grasmere to Patterdale 9 miles

It was a jolly nice day despite BBC weather forecasting end of the world storms! As it was another short day of just 9 miles we had a leisurely breakfast and left the hotel at 9.30am, in sunshine. In fact, we had just a few minutes of light rain all day. So much for weather forecasts!

We headed straight up the hillside to reach Great Rigg at 11.15am with views back over Grasmere and a bit of light and interesting clouds. I used a dark yellow filter to help with tones in the clouds.

Another half hour saw us on Fairfield, one of the biggest peaks in the Lake District at just under 3000 feet. A bit too dull for photos but still good views (the first time I have seen the views in 4 visits to the top!). Then our route took us over Cofa Pike and on to St Sunday Crag, just an hour from Fairfield, where we stopped for lunch (Eccles Cakes for me). We met Wendy and Trevor again and Anne from Australia. They were all putting on waterproofs ready for the approaching rain that we could see heading our way.

After this we followed the ridge over Birks and downhill all the way to Patterdale and the White Lion Hotel. It was just 2.45pm so we decided we would have a couple of lunchtime pints: Bass and White Lion bitter. 

We had planned a visit to the Patterdale Hotel a couple of hundred yards away but in the end we were having such a good time chatting to fellow walkers that we stayed put. We had been spoilt at previous hostelries so just having 2 real ales on seemed a bit limiting.  There was Bass and Tirrell White Lion, both bitters. Both very palatable but not very special. That’s it, beer review over!  Not sure why but of the 10 walkers we were last to leave the bar again. That’s 4 nights running and we have only been going 4 days!

Saturday 9th July 2011 Patterdale to Shap 16 miles

Today was the best weather of the trip, sunshine, blue sky and white fluffy clouds. Days you dream of! 

We left the White Lion in Patterdale at 8.45am, heading across the valley and then uphill to Angle Tarn. This was a good place for photos so I was running around picking out the views as the light changed.

Quite a high day, taking in Kidsty Pike before dropping down to the huge reservoir of Haweswater. Nice clouds helped a few shots. Then a few more miles, past the ruins of Shap Abbey, saw us into the village of Shap and our lodgings at The Greyhound Hotel at 5.45pm, just 9 hours for 16 miles over the tops, including quite a few photo stops.

What a surprise, the Greyhound Inn in Shap was a Camra real ale pub and had 8 on hand pumps. The landlord said if we drank all 8 he would give us the 9th free but it was a challenge too far for us! As it was a hot afternoon we had a couple as soon as we arrived! I started with Lancaster Black before trying the Lancaster Red. The Black was a tasty pint, a cross between a black bitter and a stout. The red was quite bland with little taste.

After showering and changing it was time for dinner. I had the local Cumberland sausage (thought I should have one before leaving Cumberland), which was very nice, with Cumbria Langdale, a very tasty pint, followed by Hawkshead Windermere pale ale, a bit too hoppy for me but nice all the same. Then it was Dent Aviator, always a good pint, finishing with Hawkshead Red, freshly tapped and a good one to finish on.

Overall, that makes 33 pints of beer in 62 miles over 5 days, giving a final figure of 15 miles per gallon. A very creditable performance!

Sunday 10th July 2011 Return to St Bees, Travel home

We paid the luggage transfer company to return us from Shap to Al’s car in St Bees, then he drove us home. It was quite a long journey as they had to pick up and drop off bags as they went.

Both of us went well most of the time. Al had blisters on a toe that was painful for the first 2 days until he wrapped it in Compeed. I only had to encourage Al to do more than he wanted to on day 4, after hearing the BBC give out a severe weather warning. We took the ridge up and over Fairfield and he was glad he decided to do it as the views were fantastic and the forecast bad weather was delayed until we were safely in the pub.

The best photos were probably around Sour Milk Gill above Seathwaite, with the backlit waterfall from below, but some of the big views looked great with the clouds – the bonus from changeable weather. 

The best day was probably Grasmere to Patterdale taking in Fairfield and St Sunday Crag, closely followed by Ennerdale Bridge to Stonethwaite because of the descent down Gillercomb as the rains cleared.

We met lots of interesting people for chats on the trail and in the pubs. It was really nice having good company with the common goal of a specific walk. In particular I always looked forward to chats and banter with Trevor and Wendy from Letty Green, Leanne and Margaret from Australia and Brigitte from Switzerland. Al was good company, as always, and it was good to spend time together as I hadn’t seen much of him in the last few years.

I lost 2% body fat and gained about 1kg in weight. I put the weight gain down to building muscle rather than the beer or copious food intake! For me, my bad back was surprisingly pain free until the last day. I think the very soft bed at the White Lion in Patterdale was to blame but Voltarol (which I took 3 times a day every day) helped.

Monday 6th August 2012 Travel  to Shap

I travelled to Shap in Cumbria with good friend Al ready to resume our leisurely version of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk, which we started last year from St Bees on the west coast. We’re staying at the Greyhound Hotel in Shap ready to resume our Coast to Coast walk tomorrow.

I bought some new boots last week, Meindl Dovre Extreme GTX. They are similar to Meindl Lohtse boots but 3 inches higher around the leg, making them 10 inches high. My Achilles tendon has been sore for quite a while now and having the top of my hiking boots hit the tendon as I walk doesn’t help. I walked about 25 miles in them without a problem before this trip. The top of the new boots were above the sensitive part of my Achilles tendon.

There were just the 8 real ales on so we had our work cut out to try them all. Between the 2 of us we managed though. Jolly nice Cumberland sausage for dinner. Best of the beers was Dent Aviator closely followed by Eden Best. 5 of the other 6 were good but Old Peculiar was past it’s best. Good preparation for walking!

Tuesday 7th August 2012 Shap to Kirby Stephen 17 miles

Today Al and I resumed the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk. We left the Greyhound Hotel in Shap a bit after 8.30am in sunshine. With my bad back I had planned a route that was several miles shorter than the Wainwright route. It also had the advantage of a pub roughly halfway!

Neither of us had walked in the area we passed through, including the pretty villages of Crosby Ravensworth, Great Asby and Crosby Garret. The countryside was typical dales scenery. Lots of dry stone walls, several areas of limestone pavement and a few old lime kilns. Except for 5 minutes it was dry and sunny all day. 

Lunchtime was spent in the 3 Greyhounds in Great Asby. We tried the 2 beers on offer; Cumberland Corby Ale and Theakston Grouse Beater, both well kept and on good form.

In the evening in Kirkby Stephen we started in the Bulls Head with Black Sheep Bitter but didn’t fancy the Holt’s bitter so moved across to the Kings Arms for Dent Aviator (not as good as last night in Shap) and Thwaites Wainwright route (not well kept).

Wednesday 8th August 2012 Kirkby Stephen to Keld

After a very nice breakfast at Castle View in Kirkby Stephen we started our second day. Overall this was day 7 of our version of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk, as we started last year.

It was an easy walk out of the village, with a stop for photos of Wild Boar Fell. Then 2 hours later we were on 9 Standards Rigg, a set of large cairn-like structures. The way down to Whitsundale was literally a quagmire of peat bog. I hate peat bogs and avoid them in the Peak District except when dry or frozen so this was a bit of a trial.

Al offered to treat me to a hot chocolate at Ravenseat Farm. He had seen it on the Yorkshire Dales tv programme (the farm not the hot chocolate!). Unfortunately, he only had £20 notes so asked me to pay. I’m still trying to work out how me paying for my drink as well as Al’s drink and scone constitutes a treat! Al did his good deed for the day by freeing a young lamb from the fence, it was trapped by its horns.

We came down to the road and went back to Wain Wath falls. These are very photogenic falls and I ran off a few rolls. The lower falls were best for me. I had to wait to take photos of the upper falls because 2 women kept swimming across my picture under the falls. How thoughtless!

We stayed at Keld Lodge. The Black Sheep Ale and Black Sheep Blonde were both very good.

Thursday 9th August 2012 Keld to Reeth 13 miles

It was sunshine all day, easy walking and, more importantly after yesterday, no bog! We had breakfast at 7.30 am despite having trouble dragging Al out of the bar last night. No change there then! The breakfasts at Keld Lodge were excellent and set us up for the day.

We were off by 8.20am and by 8.30 I was taking photos. Keld is waterfall country. Kisdon Force was the first fall and is in several sections. All of them make good photos with the top one being the highest. There were lots of big views as we walked along. The next photo stop was a ruined mine building next to a couple of pretty waterfalls. The country after this was quite scarred by mining. Ruined buildings, lime kilns and hillsides with no vegetation because of the methods used in lead mining. Lots of ruined buildings at the Old Gang Smelting Mill. Then it was a few miles through typical dales scenery to Reeth. Quite a beautiful day.

We stopped at the first pub, as you would expect, the Buck Hotel. Jolly nice Copper Dragon Bitter, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Black Sheep Bitter, plus 2 that aren’t my favourites. 3 pubs within 50 yards, 2 Theakstons and 1 Freehouse.

Pretty easy walking over the last 3 days, except 9 Standards Rigg peat bog yesterday.

Friday 10th August 2012 Reeth to Richmond 11 miles

It was the easiest day of our trip today, as judged by the time we reached the pub in Richmond.

We left Reeth at 8.30 am after a very hearty breakfast at Cambridge House b&b. A friendly place on the north side of Reeth.

The route went through lots of fields of sheep, cows and a few walkers. It then took us south of Marrick village and north. By the time we had rejoined the main route we had no-one in view ahead of us.

Next stop was the 800 year old church in the small village of Marske. I ran off a few photos from the graveyard. The final section to Richmond was just under a cliff edge with good views to the valley below. Hazy now so no photos and we were in Richmond by 1.15pm (11 miles) and headed for Wetherspoons. Just the 10 real ales on but we limited ourselves to one; there were lots of pubs here.

Next was the Golden Lion, a Marston’s pub so I was hoping for Snecklifter. None available but there was Hobgoblin so I had one and another to check the first was no fluke! Al asked the well endowed barmaid for a Real Handful; I’m surprised he didn’t get a slap instead of a pint! Al dragged me back in the evening, I forced down another Hobgoblin.

Saturday 11th August 2012 Richmond to Danby Wiske 16 miles

Today was the last day walking this year’s section of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast trail with Al.

We had an 8.40am start and it was another dry warm day. We planned to stop at the pub at Catterick Bridge but thought 10.50am was a bit early for a beer so we carried on to the Farmers Arms at Scorton (slight diversion). Unfortunately, we were too fast and arrived at 11.45am but the pub opened at 12am. We sat in the sunshine until opening time. Both of us had Copper Dragon Golden Pippin.

Next stop was the churchyard at Burton-on-Swale to see the monument to Henry Jenkins who lived to be 169 years old in the 1500’s and 1600’s. That’s a long time!  From there it was farmland, cows and crops to Danby. The only muddy section on the whole day being the last mile to Danby. We finished at 3.15pm at the White Swan. First off was a Northallerton Dark Ale, a bit sweet for me but the Yorkshire Dicky Edge was a good pint. The waterproofs were only used for 10 minutes in 5 days and the walking was good.

Jan met us at the pub and drove us to Shap to collect Al’s car, he then drove back Gloucester and Jan drove me back to the Peak District.

I have some new landscapes, waterfalls and other photos. We managed a creditable 17 mpg (beer!) over the 73 miles that we walked in 5 days. So that’s 10 days down. Next year we return to Danby Wiske to walk the 5 days to Robin Hood’s Bay to finish the walk.

Monday 5th August 2013 Travel to Danby Wiske, walk to Ingleby Cross

Jan, my wife, drove me to Danby Wiske in North Yorkshire and good friend Al from Gloucester was in his own car. We resumed our 3 year trip along the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk and this was the last section. We started with lunch in the Swan in Danby Wiske with a couple of pints of Gun Dog Bitter. Al could only manage one as he had to drop off his car at our end point for the day, the Blue Bell Inn. Jan and Al moved cars around while I stayed in the pub.

The walk from Danby was across fields on slippery, muddy tracks in flat lands. It was dry and overcast, not the best walking country! I didn’t take any photos or even carry my tripod.

We arrived in Ingleby Cross at 4.30pm but had to wait outside until 5.30pm to check-in at the Blue Bell Inn. After moving our luggage from Al’s car in the car park to our room we retired to the bar for a couple of pints of Blue Bell bitter. After a quick wash and brush up we resumed our session with Blue Bell bitter. The Theakstons bitter was well under par so we stayed on Blue Bell all night.

Tuesday 6th August 2013 Ingleby Cross to Great Broughton 15 miles

Al prepared a sausage sandwich from his breakfast. Unfortunately, he left it in our room instead of bringing it with him and was whingeing about it all day! 

The day started with a long slog up through the forest, so no views. Then it opened out onto the moors above with lots of ups and downs, in fact over 4100 feet of ups and downs. There were a few rocks and crags near the end of the day but not that inspiring compared to what I’m used to in the Peak District.

This photo was taken from the last craggy section today at Cold Moor looking ahead to Cringle Moor, near Clay Bank Top.

Al also lost a Sigg water bottle near the end of the day, as we made our way to our accommodation for the night. He thinks it was while we limboed under a fallen tree trunk across the path, at least that provided a bit of variety for the whingeing. 

We saw a live mole right beside the path, it was completely oblivious to us being there and to think Al had used moleskin on his feet to prevent blisters. Rather insensitive I thought! 

It was about 12.5 miles from Ingleby to Clay Bank Top, mostly in sunshine. We were unable to get hold of our hosts for the night for a lift so we decided to walk the extra 2.5 miles to Great Broughton as it was still early, just 2.45pm in fact. Unfortunately all the pubs were shut when we reached the village. 

In the evening we ate in the Jet Miners pub and had a couple of Cumberland Ales, even though we are in Yorkshire! Then we moved on to the Bay Horse and they had Snecklifter, one of my favourite beers, so we stayed for a few. Our beer mileage for the trip is about 21mpg as we couldn’t find anywhere open at lunchtime.

Wednesday 7th August 2013 Clay Bank to Blakey

We were up early as Andrea, our landlady at Newlands House in Great Broughton, had to go to a funeral in Middlesbrough. Breakfast was at 7.30am, followed by a lift to the pass where we finished the official route yesterday. We were well looked after!

Readers will be relieved to hear that Al remembered his sausage today but forgot to eat it until we had arrived at the pub. I should add that it was a different sausage to the one that was considered lost from yesterday.

We were walking by 8.30am, along the edge and onto the moors above. It was another warm, dry day. The landscape was not the most inspiring, mostly flat so I took no photos until we reached our destination, the Lion Inn at Blakey, just 9 miles today. There were lots of dogs in the pub so my asthma and allergies were not good.

I had a pint of Wainwright followed by a couple of Old Peculiars. We then had a break and rechecked the Old Peculiar in the evening.

Thursday 8th August 2013 Blakey to Grosmont

After a hearty breakfast at the Lion Inn at Blakey we left at 9am heading for Grosmont. It was dry all day with lots of sunshine, until we went to the pub at the end of the day when it rained.

The first 10 miles was across open moors with just sheep for company, and Al. Then we went down into Glaisdale where we had our first break at 12.10pm, at the Arncliffe Arms and a pint of Beggars Bridge bitter. Then it was down the hill through the trees to the old Beggars Bridge. I took it on my Mamiya 7 camera as it was a good shot. Al also posed on the bridge, he likes posing! We saw a Kingfisher flash by just above the water as I was taking shots. That’s always good to see as it tells you that the river must be in a good state.

Next was The Horseshoe Hotel at Egton Bridge at 1.30pm. The Men of Steel bitter was very tasty as we sat in the beer garden in the sun. The bottom of the glass was amusing, it read Get T’ Bar (see image below)! Just round the corner was The Postgate, still in Egton Bridge, at 2.25pm. Just time for a pint of Timothy Taylor Landlord before it closed at 3pm. Had to wait for a new barrel and it was excellent.

Finally we walked along the flat estate track to Grosmont and our final ‘lunchtime’ pint at the Station Tavern 4pm. This time it was the local Strongarm bitter. Our bed and breakfast place is near the pub so we returned to the Station Tavern for some food, and the odd pint!

Friday 9th August 2013 Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay

After a hearty breakfast at Lisvane bed and breakfast in Grosmont we were on the move by 8.45am. No sausage scares for Al today so all was well with the world!

All uphill for a couple of miles then across heather moors and down to Littlebeck. The section from here was a quite interesting woodland gorge. Al did his daily silly bugger turn at the hermit’s cave. Next came the 30 foot high Falling Foss waterfall but it had little water but was still quite picturesque through the trees. We then followed footpaths over fields and heather moors to High Hawsker and the Hare and Hounds pub by 12.45 pm. The Theakstons Black Bull Bitter and Thwaites Wainwright Ale were both in good form, as was the enormous BLT baguette.

The final leg was along the cliff tops in sunshine to Robin Hood’s Bay. We made a bee-line for the shoreline, fortunately it was high tide so not far to go, and paddled in the sea to finish the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk which we started on 5th July 2011. A total time of 2 years 1 month.

Next was a celebratory drink or two of Theakstons Bitter in the Bay Hotel and signing of the official register. The celebrations continued into the evening as Jan and Carol, our wives, arrived. We had a good meal at the Dolphin and a few pints of Old Peculiar to round off the trip.

Cameras

1979: Nikon Nikkormat FTn 35mm camera with colour transparency film.

2003: Mamiya 6 120 film camera, Ilford FP4 120 film. Colour photos were taken by Jan Butcher on a Canon EOS 500 35mm camera with colour transparency film and scanned.

2011-2013: Mamiya 7 camera, Ilford FP4 120 film. Colour photos from 2011 onwards were taken on my mobile phones of various sorts.

Guidebook, Maps, GPS

Guidebook

In 1979 we all had copies of the guidebook by Alfred Wainwright, since he defined the route and wrote the guidebook relatively recently (at the time) in 1973.

In 2011-2013 I had my copy of the Wainwright guidebook which stayed in my luggage and was referred to in the evenings. Al had a different up-to-date guidebook which he carried every day.

Maps

In 1979 I used Ordnance Survey (OS) maps at a scale of 1 inch to 1 mile (1:63,360). The whole route was covered by 6 maps:

Sheet 82 Keswick

Sheet 83 Penrith

Sheet 84 Teesdale

Sheet 90 Wensleydale

Sheet 91 Ripon

North York Moors Tourist Map

In 2003 and 2011-2013 I used 2 sets of maps, Harvey’s maps and OS 25k maps.

OS 25k Maps (in the order in which used):

Outdoor Leisure Map 4: The English Lakes North-Western Area

Outdoor Leisure Map 7: The English Lakes South-Eastern Area

Outdoor Leisure Map 5: The English Lakes North-Eastern Area

Outdoor Leisure Map 19: Howgill Fells and Upper Eden Valley

Outdoor Leisure Map 30: Yorkshire Dales North and Central Areas

Explorer Map 304: Darlington and Richmond

Outdoor Leisure Map 26: North York Moors Western Area

Outdoor Leisure Map 27: North York Moors Eastern Area   

Harveys Maps:

If you stay on the official route these are best as just 2 maps cover the entire route and they’re at a scale of 1:40,000, clearly show the route on the very detailed map, they’re waterproof so you don’t need to carry the map in a separate map case and fold down very small so even fit in trouser pockets.

Coast to Coast West: St Bees to Keld

Coast to Coast East: Keld to Robin Hood’s Bay

GPS

2011, 2012, 2013: Satmap Active 10 GPS with OS 50k maps for the whole of the UK.

In 2011 I used the GPS with paper maps all the time, just checking the GPS for our exact position periodically (it displayed the Ordnance Survey 50k map on the screen with a blue circle over our position on the map but the screen was a bit small to use as the sole map). In 2012 and 2013 I programmed our route onto the GPS and followed this and barely needed the paper maps which stayed in my rucsack most of the time.