Snowdonia 3000 foot mountains 2015

Most years I go away for a week or so walking the mountains with good friend Al from Gloucester. In 2015 we decided to go to Snowdonia for a change and as we had hiked over the Lake District 3000 foot mountains in 2014 it seemed appropriate to do a similar trip in Snowdonia. I devised a route taking in 9 of the 3000 foot mountains, there are 15 in total. However, Al mentioned that he had never been up Tryfan so the route was changed and ended up with 7 peaks on the trek, missing out Y Garn and the two Glyders but adding Tryfan. It was an 8 day trip of 97 miles with a bit under 10,000 metres of ascent. Here are the updated blog posts and re-edited trek photos.

Monday 20th July 2015 Travel to Conway

I met up with good friend Al from Gloucester and he drove us over to Conwy in North Wales. We stayed at the very comfortable Castlebank Hotel and they kindly let us leave Al’s car in their car park for the trip as we would be returning here at the end. The owner was a photographer and had some stunning photos of Conway on his walls.

My wife Jan had arranged for our luggage to be moved between our accommodation every day. Unfortunately, there’s no luggage transfer company in this part of the world so she had to book 4 different taxi companies for the 8 day trip. Experience has told us that they are sometimes not the most reliable in doing this, they manage with people but sometimes struggle with unaccompanied luggage. To make sure everything ran as smoothly as possible Jan telephoned each taxi company every day to check that all was in order for that day. Here’s our route map.

Tuesday 21st July 2015 Conway/Conwy to Llanfairfechan 10 miles

Today we walked from Conwy to Llanfairfechan over Tal-y-Fan, a 610m peak on the end of the Carnedd ridge. It took us about 5 hours to cover the 10 miles with about 2500 feet of ascent. Wind was gusting around 20 mph and we had squally rain showers every few minutes. Clouds stayed off the tops though so we had pretty good views.

We are staying at the Village Inn and it’s just okay. It needs a lot of money spending on it and the meals were interesting, or at least Al’s was. He had Risotto and it came with creamed rice pudding instead of normal rice. I don’t think Al had had that before! We were lucky our luggage had reached the hotel, the taxi driver that Jan had paid to deliver it picked up the luggage in Conway, drove to the hotel but there was no-one there so he took it back to Conway. Luckily the hotel chef picked up a message and kindly drove to Conway to pick it up as the taxi refused to return.

Wednesday 22nd July 2015 Llanfairfechan to Bethesda 14 miles

Today Al and I continued our trek around Snowdonia by walking from Llanfairfechan to Bethesda. It was raining when we started and barely stopped for the first 5 hours. There was a strong cold wind too. I put my fleece hat, neck warmer and gloves on. It was like a wet Autumn walk. There were not many photo opportunities for my Mamiya 7 film camera, I just took a few snaps on my Moto-X phone. Thankfully it brightened up later and was a proper summer afternoon, from Carnedd Llewellyn onwards. I managed 2 rolls of Ilford 400 Delta 120 film, 20 exposures mid to late afternoon.

We took our time with the last bit which was sunny. It took us 9 hours to cover the 14 miles with over 6000 feet of ascent and 6 peaks: Drum, Foel-fras (3090ft), Garnedd Uchaf (3038ft), Foel Grach (3202ft), Carnedd Llewelyn (3490ft), Carnedd Dafydd (3425ft), the last 2 being proper mountains in their own right, the first 4 were blips on the ridge.

We wanted to stay in Bethesda but there was no accommodation other than a hostel, despite there being several inns and hotels. The closest we could stay was the Snowdonia Mountain Lodge a couple of miles out of Bethesda, about halfway to Ogwen. It’s a health and wellbeing retreat with a tall pillar near our room, with a flame at the top labelled the Eternal Flame of World Peace. However, it has ensuite rooms available by the night as well. Unfortunately, there was no restaurant or cafe on site so we used a taxi to take us into Bethesda for the evening for a meal at the Indian Restaurant, and a few hard earned pints in the pubs, before bringing us back.

Thursday 23rd July 2015 Bethesda to Pen y Gwryd Hotel 9 miles

Disappointing breakfast of cereals and toast so we were hungry most of the day. As we were walking back to our room Al joked that we should have bought a pack of sausages from the supermarket in Bethesda yesterday and stuck them on the ends of our trekking poles to cook them in the Eternal Flame of World Peace!

We were well rested after yesterday as we headed off towards Ogwen and went around the back of the lake then over to Tryfan (3011ft) via the Heather Terrace. It was really rough walking on jumbled rocks, so I had to make sure I had my balance before placing the next foot down. It was a long ascent finally reaching the ridge below the summit where the last bit was a scramble over big rocks.

It was coming over black as if it was going to rain. We hurried to take our pictures then made our way down slowly. From the col we took the track up to some small lakes I had photographed many years ago (Lyn Caseg-fraith). They give reflections of Tryfan on still days, today wasn’t one of those as it was quite breezy. I took a few but it was quite dull and raining. It just remained to descend to the Pen y Gwryd Hotel at the foot of the Llanberis Pass. The Miner’s Track was also rough most of the way down and boggy at the bottom.

The hotel is a bit quirky, a bit like stepping back in time. Good food and beer though.

Friday 24th July 2015 Pen y Gwryd Hotel to Beddgelert 11 miles

A bit of a late start today as breakfast started at 8.30am and involved waitress service at our table for everything, a bit of a rarity these days. That meant we were away at the crack of 9.45am! There was rain right from the start, all day in fact. Al’s hip was playing up so we just went up Miner’s Track to Snowdon (3559ft), missing out Lliwedd. Not the greatest day to do more than we needed to anyway.

Probably over 25 years since I last went up Snowdon and the zig-zags are now paved with stone slabs. Whatever happened to the scree? The old concrete bunker cafe has also been replaced by a smart new building with cafe/gift shop. There was a TV crew and a reporter setting up just below the summit cairn, they were from the Netherlands judging by the accents.

I took a few shots with the proper camera and a few with the phone for this blog but it wasn’t a good day for photos. I thought I would be able to replenish my Snowdonia portfolio with this trip, looks like I have a few but not the number I hoped for. We’re in the Prince Llewelyn Hotel, Beddgelert tonight. Well fed and watered! Tomorrow Moel Hebog and Tremadog.

Saturday 25th July 2015 Beddgelert to Tremadog 9 miles

Today was the fifth of our 8 day trek around Snowdonia. It was also our first dry and sunny day! We left our hotel in Beddgelert late, cooked breakfast wasn’t served until after 9am, the Prince Llewelyn is obviously not geared up for walkers.

The first mile was through farmland then we were on a steep track up Moel Hebog. Bit of scrambling part way up too. Cold wind even when the sun was shining. There were spectacular views from the top but I only had the wide-angle lens on my Mamiya 7 camera so I just took a few shots . Nice sky so used an orange filter to darken it and put more contrast in the clouds. I was travelling light, just 1 camera and lens with 2 filters, yellow and orange, and 6 rolls of Ilford 400 Delta 120 film, rated at 500 ISO.

The descent from the top looked easy on the map. The highest part was Access Land so we could walk anywhere. Then down steep rough terrain to an abandoned village and around a reservoir.

We were within 2 miles of the end of the day but paths marked on the map were nowhere to be seen. Our way was also barred by barbed wire in 2 places on public footpaths, this is within the Snowdonia National Park. What’s going on? We eventually made it to Tremadog at 4.45pm, rather later than expected. We are staying in a very nice room, all in black and white – very appropriate! – at the Golden Fleece Inn, Tremadog. It was very busy in the evening for meals, good food and real ales.

Sunday 26th July 2015 Tremadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog 15.5 miles

Today we walked from Tremadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog over Cnicht, a small mountain just under 700 metres. About 15.5 miles but it took 8.5 hours, slowed by the weather, scrambling on slippery rock and old age! It was raining as we left our hotel and hadn’t stopped when we reached our hotel in Blaenau.

At the Pont Croesor bridge we were surprised to see an Osprey Visitor Centre, neither of us had any idea that there were any around here. We thought nothing more as we walked by, still with a long way to go. There was a brand new ladder stile just over the bridge to take us away from the road. A few more yards and there was another ladder stile only this one was booby trapped! As you went over the stile below the bottom step on the far side was a ditch a couple of feet wide and quite deep (I checked with my trekking pole). You needed to turn around on the ladder part and take a big step to cross it. A bit further on we crossed the railway line to be greeted by a sign on the footpath gate telling us to keep to the footpath or we would be reported to the Police! Just after this we saw a single Osprey circling overhead, something you don’t see every day! Then just before we reached the road at the other end there was a caravan and an Osprey warden who quizzed us on what we were doing, it turned out he had been watching us as we walked along. With the barbed wire on public footpaths, several missing paths that are marked on maps, the booby trapped ladder stile, the Police sign and this we didn’t feel that tourists were very welcome in this part of the world!

However, I was looking forward to the next section, the ascent of Cnicht, the Matterhorn of Snowdonia. I had only done it once before and that was a similar time of year in the pouring rain! We soon came upon a group doing their Duke of Edinburgh award. One of them was clearly having trouble carrying her big load and was falling behind. We chatted with them for a few minutes and found out that they were also intending to go over Cnicht. There was low cloud, a strong breeze and heavy rain so we tactfully suggested that they stay low and stay together as a group.

They actually agreed and headed off around the foot of Cnicht as we headed up. The higher we went the worse the weather conditions became with winds over 40 mph behind the rain making my face feel like a pincushion at times. Rain was running down my arms and my fleece sleeves became very wet as well as blowing in around my face. Horrible weather! Al fared better with his new Gore-Tex jacket and trousers but you can’t always have new gear. Most of the time mine is fine. Coming down off the top the ground widened from the narrow ridge and it was quite complicated to navigate with just 20-odd yards visibility. We came down into the old Cwmorthin quarry and must have missed the track somehow and had to make our way down the end of a spoil heap to rejoin it, a touch unpleasant at the time. From there it was plain sailing into Blaenau, looking like drowned rats once again as we arrived at our hotel.

I carried my Mamiya 7 camera all day with no chance to use it. Even in a LowePro case with a waterproof cover everything was wet. We are staying at the Gwesty Ty Gorsaf Hotel in Blaenau Ffestiniog but unfortunately it doesn’t do food on a Sunday so we went out in the rain again for an Indian. After that we visited one of the pubs for a pint, it was packed. In order to dry most of the gear by the time we return to the room we turned on both radiators and the heated towel rail to Max. The floor was also covered in gear that needed drying. Our room may be more like a sauna so sleeping may be a problem but the gear should be dry!

The forecast for tomorrow is similar so we’re having second thoughts about going over Moel Siabod in similar weather to today and may find a lower route. Five wet days in six so far! So much for adding to my Snowdonia portfolio of photographs.

Monday 27th July 2015 Blaenau Ffestiniog to Capel Curig 12 miles

We originally planned to walk Moel Siabod today but in view of the weather forecast (similar to yesterday, wet and windy) we changed the route to lower ground.

Before the day started we had an early morning call in the form of the fire alarm going off around 7am. We quickly pulled some clothes on and grabbed a waterproof as it was raining. There were a dozen or so residents outside with us but no staff. After 10 minutes and still no sign of any staff from the Gwesty Ty Gorsaf Hotel in Blaenau Ffestiniog, no smoke, no flames, no fire brigade, we assumed it was a false alarm so Al and another resident went inside to turn off the alarm (Al checks fire alarms for a living) and we returned to our rooms! After getting re-dressed properly we had breakfast, paid and left. The hotel also doesn’t do food on Sundays and Mondays, I don’t think either of us will be back.

It was raining as we started and continued for most of the day. We walked up through the Maen-offeren working slate quarry. On the sodden moors at the top we stopped for a minute or two to watch a pair of Peregrine Falcons performing aerobatics just below the clouds. The male bird flying high then folding it’s wings and plummeting towards the ground. Quite a sight, an Osprey yesterday, Peregrines today, maybe I should walk in the rain more often?

It was very rough walking past Llyn Newydd then we skirted east around the forest plantation to the stile and followed the track down into the valley below. From here it was a country lane into Dolwyddelan but unfortunately the Y Gwydyr pub on the crossroads was closed at lunchtime. Time for plan B, there was the Elen’s Castle Hotel a hundred yards along the road so we headed for that, and it was open. We could hear people about but no-one came to serve us even though they had seen us. Eventually a woman came and asked us what we wanted and added there was no food at lunchtime, which was fine as we just wanted a pint and some crisps. After serving us she said that they were actually closed (even though the door was open and the sign outside said Open!). We didn’t feel welcome so we drank up and left.

From here it was uphill on a track into more forest and then over boggy moors, eventually coming down to the lane near the main road through Capel Curig. We stopped at the first pub, the Tyn Y Coed Hotel and had a pint before walking the last half-mile or so to the Bryn Tyrch Inn, our accommodation for the night. I didn’t even carry my Mamiya film camera today, put my mobile in a waterproof case inside my rucsac and just took 1 shot on my mobile, of the river in Capel Curig near our hotel.

Tomorrow is our last day and we walk the 16 miles to Conwy. The forecast looks vaguely familiar, wind and rain. Oh joy!

Tuesday 28th July 2015 Capel Curig to Conway/Conwy 16 miles

Our room was excellent at the Bryn Tyrch Inn, as was the food, real ales and service. Definitely one to come back to.

Our last of the 8 day trek in Snowdonia was also the longest at 16 miles. As usual it was raining as we left the Bryn Tyrch Inn. We needed to reach Conwy and our route was over the high moors then along the higher parts of the Conway valley to a pub for lunch. The rain persisted for the first few hours then became showers as we reached the more cultivated parts of the valley. The sun only came out for a couple of hours after we finished in Conway!

Having checked pub opening hours on the web we expected to spend lunchtime in one of two pubs, the first was Ye Olde Bull Inn, Llanbedr-y-cennin, unfortunately it was closed when we reached it at 1pm! The sign outside the door said Welcome – Open but Al’s pose opening the door was a little premature. We carried on knowing that the Ty Gwyn Hotel in Rowen, less than 2 miles ahead, should be open – but that was shut as well. Our first pint of the day was actually after we finished, in The Albion pub in Conway.

Finally, it’s worth mentioning that we were jolly well looked after at the excellent Castlebank Hotel in Conway once again. The hotels for the last 2 nights plus The Golden Fleece in Tremadog and the Snowdonia Mountain Lodge were the undoubted highlights of our accommodation. The Pen y Gwryd Hotel near Snowdon was an experience as it was where the 1953 first successful Everest expedition stayed to train for their trip. In fact if they were to return there today I suspect they would recognise it immediately as you appeared to be stepping back decades as you wandered around all the nooks and crannies.

In total I took just 6.5 rolls of 120 Ilford 400 Delta film in 8 days, that’s 65 negatives at 10 shots a roll. In Conway after we finished I took a further 2.5 rolls around the castle walls and harbour of the castle and town. I carried my Mamiya 7 camera for the first 6 days but my camera case, complete with it’s all weather cover, was so saturated after day 6 that I didn’t carry it for the last 2 days for fear of it happening again.

The 8 day trek was 97 miles with close to 10,000 metres of ascent and included seven of the 3000 foot mountains and a few smaller ones like Drum, Moel Hebog and Cnicht. We had just 1 dry day and mostly it was persistent rain for many hours.

Snowdonia 3000 Foot Mountains 2015